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Paul Villinski, My Back Pages, 2006-2008
Tara Donovan is one of several artists featured in an exhibit called Second Lives, Remixing the Ordinary (Through February 15th) at the Museum of Art & Design in New York. The exhibit features works by emerging artists around the globe who reimagine everyday objects as art - apparel pieces and installations. That sort of thing.
So I've been reading a lot about budget-conscious fashion, as noted from an earlier post on the NY Times' Style "recessionista" story. Current economic crisis notwithstanding, plenty of us are lifers when it comes to discount shopping. After having been trained to bargain hunt since early childhood, informed by my parents' immigrant experience and my father's commitment to frugality (uh, not always taste), here are my Ten Rules to navigate The Bargain Battlefield:
1. Travel Minimally. At my 1998 Battle against the German lady at Barney's Warehouse Sale, I learned that when entering such hostile territory, one must travel lightly (no bags of any sort) and wear the least bulky coat you own. While trying to manage too much stuff in hand, (clothes draped over my coat, purse, etc.) the hangers from my finds snagged the sweater a German woman was carrying. While I was trying to use diplomacy and undo this collaboratively, she insisted on using brut force to tug at her sweater, thereby flinging my things across the aisle, thereby causing me to come undone.
2. Shop Purposefully. Stock Necessities Only. At the height of the season, don't just "go shopping" without first doing a full inventory of your wardrobe. Are there things you haven't worn. Why not? Separate out those items that can be tailored or altered. Now look at the remaining items. Retain items that you like, even though you don't tend to wear them, items that are well-made/classic, and, items you spent money on. These are always workable. Figure out if there is a style of skirt, pant or cardigan that they will work with. Short list 3 must-buy pieces (meaning clothing. I'm not talking coats, boots, or other accessories) that will help you maximize these items and the rest of your wardrobe. Everything else is not a necessity, and can be considered an extra.
3. Survey the Battlefield. Don't feel the need to dive into a Filene's, Daffy's or Off Fifth without first lapping the store once. How is the store organized? Sometimes the designer collections are in their own section. Sometimes it looks really crappy or 'track-suity' upon entrance, until you realize you're in the "Juniors" section. My first tactic is to go straight to the fitting rooms. Look at what's already been picked through, as it's usually the best of what's available there.
4. Avoid the Tourist Traps, aka Hostile Territory. In NY, which is a tourist trap in general, it's best to avoid places like Century 21 or those random "Levi's" stores midtown. Anything that draws Euro or other foreign currency means 1) over crowding and poor shoppers' etiquette and 2) prices suitable to that foreign currency.
5. Basics and Staples Rule. For things like cotton knitwear, lounge wear and undergarments, cashmere turtlenecks or a simple, minimalist everyday black dress (like the one pictured above, found courtesy of edressme.com), there is no need to pay full retail price. There is plenty of oversupply for Calvin Klein underwear and Ralph Lauren cotton tights stocked in places like: TJ Maxx, CostCo, Filene's Basement, K-Mart, Marshall's, etc.
6. Do not buy a great deal just because it's a great deal. This is a trap that can lead to a flurry of ancillary purchases. If the item doesn't work into your wardrobe immediately, e.g. you need a new pair of pants that can pick up the orange in whatever you just lifted, put it back where you found it.
7. Pick an alliance. I'm a Loehmann's girl, and what that means is I proudly carry an "Insider Club" card, the perks of which include that five days before and after my birthday, I get an additional 15% discount on anything and everything. I'm sure there are similar loyalty programs offered at other bargain department stores. Whore your personal information. Get that discount.
8. Identify local intelligence, aka Ask a Shop Girl. These girls are privy to incoming shipments, future sales AND hidden gem store policies. For example find out if the store has a price adjustment program, meaning, if you return to the store within 14- or 30- days and something is further marked down, do they re-credit you the difference in price if you present your receipt.
9. Avoid the "Bargain Hunt" all together and go "Closet Shopping" on your own turf. One of the things I do now, because I have become a repurposeful waste-hating, ethical consumer is what I like to call shopping out of your own closet. I have a bag of purgatory clothes/accessories that I've have been in purgatory for a couple years, and I keep it out of site on purpose. I purge things from here eventually, but in the interim, I often forget there are perfectly good items in here. Recent finds: a black spaghetti strapped cotton dress (circa 1999), horrible stretchy tweed bell-bottoms (circa 1997), which, surprise, work tucked into a pair of riding boots or vintage slouchy boots.
10. Establish your own personal ten principles to shop by. Figure out what you're willing to spend money on. What are your signature categories (I would pick three) -- handbags and shoes, pendants, denim, coats, dresses? And then establish the caps for those spends. Are you going to be a slave to Italian or French designers? Are you going to be vigilant about the workmanship? Are you ruling out synthetic materials, clothing made in sketchy, military-ruled Southeast Asian countries? Are you going to buy something based on it only having a shot at being your favorite pair of pants, or your favorite dress? Does it pass the "I-would-put-this-on-even-if-it-was-Monday, raining-and-I-had-cramps" test?
I just found The Broken Plate Company courtesy of a Great Green Goods post. I particularly like these cufflinks made from, well, broken vintage plates. Reminds me of all the mismatched dishware I dug out during that kitchen makeover I embarked on this past summer.
Courtesy of my cousin Janelle, I thought these two projects were great examples of simple, DIY reupholstering. We love the powers of glue.
I like the designs from these two particular stores. The first one Alter in Brooklyn, has great age-appropriate clothes, despite it being situated in Greenpoint. Fantastic reconstructed men's shirts and sweaters. Some Odd Rubies is the brainchild of Summer Phoenix, Odessa Whitmire and Ruby Canner, and was originally opened in the LES. Next week it will officially open on West Third Street in Los Angeles. They boast updated vintage, custom pieces and customers walk out with shopping bags made of 100% recycled materials.
